The Macon Telegraph , which in dropped the city's name from its official masthead, is the state's third-largest newspaper, after the. Granite outcrops stand in stark contrast to the surrounding matrix of old-field areas and oak-hickory-pine forest. Skip to main content. Textile Industry Original entry by. Arden Williams , Georgia Humanities,.
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- Post-World War I tales: A silk surplus, armistice fashion, and a philanthropic innovator
- Glossary of textile manufacturing
- Textile Industry
- What Is Viscose? 6 Facts About This Misunderstood Fabric
- Process + Materials
- Textile industry
- Pro-tips for buying clothes that will last years, not weeks
- Textile Industry
Post-World War I tales: A silk surplus, armistice fashion, and a philanthropic innovatorVIDEO ON THE TOPIC: Slub and Silk Fabric Manufacturer
This past winter, I was lucky enough to visit Vietnam on vacation. While there were many places I wanted to explore, one that particularly enticed me was the ambient former port city of Hoi An, located on the eastern coast of Vietnam. Hoi An and the surrounding area has been inhabited for an estimated years, emerging as an important seaport for the Champa kingdom. In the early 14th century, the Cham king presented a large parcel of land, now known as Quang Nam province, as a gift when he married a Vietnamese princess.
However, the main river connecting Hoi An to the sea silted over in the 19th century, bringing trade to a halt, and thus preserving many of the buildings and architecture in time, avoiding the inevitable slapdash construction booms that accompany most developing economies.
The goods sold inside fall anywhere on the quality spectrum from luxury to fast fashion; the more expensive stores display bolts of jewel-toned fabric, the mannequins in the windows wear ball gowns or the traditional Vietnamese ao dai.
The cheaper shops, more popular with the backpacker set, have dozens of plastic mannequins lined up on the sidewalks, sporting various designer knock-offs.
Shop owners and seamstresses ready with measuring tape in hand, beckon you into dense, windowless shops, fabric in every color and pattern imaginable lining the walls. Since tailoring is such a huge industry in Hoi An, many of these shops are owned by individual families who pass down the skill from generation to generation.
The vast majority of silk goods are produced by domesticated silkworms, Bombyx mori, although there are many insects, and of course arachnids, that have the ability to produce silk.
Silk is a protein fiber that is created as the silkworm transitions from a larval to pupal stage by enveloping itself in a cocoon. Silk in its raw state contains two proteins, fibroin and sericin; two strands of fibroin are produced by the spinneret a gland located near the head of silk-producing creatures and then coated with a waxy substance, sericin, which binds the strands together.
These fibers are prism-shaped and able to refract light at multiple angles, which is why silk has a certain iridescent sheen. Centuries ago, Silk Village employed dozens of the local Quang Nam residents, who reared silkworms in the vast mulberry tree groves surrounding the grounds.
Local artisans produced silk textiles and products for trade both locally and internationally. However, due to declining interest in expensive handmade cloth, and of course the industrial revolution, Silk Village was closed as a manufacturing site about years ago.
When re-opened as a resort, spa and living museum, its current owners kept its original design and intent in mind. Many of the buildings, while providing luxurious amenities, reflect the traditional local architecture style of centuries past. Many are low to the ground, have thatched or terracotta roofs, and are either open air or have stucco walls. Mulberry trees, as well as other various tropical flora, provide a lush habitat for silkworms and tourists alike.
Even though Silk Village produces relatively few silk goods in comparison to their heyday, their dedication to traditional Vietnamese sericulture and textile production attracts visitors from around the world. After languishing in the spa and sleeping off my jet lag, I decided to take the complimentary tour offered to hotel guests. I had yet to explore the grounds fully, so I was unsure of what I had in store ahead of me. We met in the lobby and then were promptly led to a complex of about traditional-looking structures.
In captivity, the eggs are laid on specially treated paper, and as they hatch, transferred to a locale where they can feed continuously. It was then that I noticed two vast baskets in the corner, peering over the rim I could see thousands of silkworms wriggling around, one on top of another, munching on mulberry leaves. After roughly a month in relative comfort and abundance they will begin to spin cocoons, where they will enter their pupal, or pubescent stage.
Our tour guide lead us to our next stop, an open air structure with a thatched roof. Despite the lack of walls, the air was thick with a particular smell — something between boiled linen and a baked potato.
Two women were seated on stools, steam pouring out of cauldron near their feet. This is where the lifecycle of many a Bombyx mori comes to an end, and where silk production begins.
The cocoons, plump, white and full of potential, much like an Ivy League graduation procession, are thrown unceremoniously into this large vat of boiling water. The heat kills the pupa in its chrysalis and loosens the tightly wound thread-like fibers. It is undesirable for pupa to fully mature and hatch in the cocoon, as its growth causes the silk strands to break.
In traditional silk production, this thread is deftly located with two long sticks resembling chopsticks, and wound around a spindle the pupa is often eaten. One cocoon can produce up to meters nearly a mile! A single thread is too delicate to be used for weaving, so a few threads are woven together at this point to create a stronger material.
Once the silk fibers have been extracted, they are processed, spun and dyed. Most silk thread will be washed in a soapy water or enzyme solution, which dissolves the waxy sericin, creating a much more soft, pliable and opalescent product. Raw silk lacks this extra process, so it is unique in that it has a rougher, almost bumpy appearance and feel. Next, our tour guide led us into another room where a woman sat in front of a complicated looking wooden contraption.
This woman was weaving in the traditional Cham style, and many Cham women still weave and produce textiles using this centuries-old method. A traditional Cham loom is much longer and thinner than a modern loom, constructed of rough-looking wood, bamboo and coral.
We all watched transfixed, as the woman expertly tugged on seemingly random pieces of coral used here as heddles causing them to bob up and down, creating a beautiful and complex brocade pattern. An experienced Cham weaver can weave up to meters a day. Next, we were greeted by the steady thwack sound of a large, slightly more modern and vastly more mechanized loom. Strung across the top part of the loom were seven bobbins, all different colored silks, luminous blues, pearlescent silvers and whites, rich golds and reds, being woven into a striped, aquamarine colored cloth.
Much of the silk textiles produced in Vietnam are created on looms similar to the one pictured here, although most likely on a larger scale. The tour ended with, you guessed it — the gift shop, but it was the most interesting gift shop experience I have had to date.
After briefly browsing the racks and marveling at the handmade silk fabric for sale, we sat down for the final phase of the tour. Our guide had a small bundle of fabric that she set down on the table. She took a scrap from her bundle and lit it with a lighter. Silk is perhaps one of the oldest known luxury goods, records of its production dating back to the Huang-Di Dynasty in China some 5, years ago. Our desire for its unique beauty, strength and versatility helped launch the Silk Road, and expediting commerce and cultural exchange between the east and west.
Besides textiles, silkworms have been used more recently by the scientific community. Because of their larger size and rapid lifecycle, they have been used to study insect physiology. Bombyx mori are popular in genetic experiments for these reasons as well. Recently silkworms injected with spider DNA have been bred to produce an even stronger silk material, and silkworms have been used in the transgenic production of human drugs.
I left what I thought would be a rather perfunctory tour with a great appreciation for these versatile creatures, and additionally, for the people trying to keep their traditional textile story alive.
Grimaldi, David and Michael S. Evolution of the Insects. Cambridge University Press, Special thanks to Hoi An Silk Village and my wonderful tour guide. Additional information provided by Vy Plaza. I am about to visit Vietnam in a few days time. I spin yarns and weave. I am interested in buying silk fibre for spinning.
Can you buy cocoons or the fibre they produce in the village? Guests will be hosted by Thread Caravan and. Donna had taken dyeing classes at.
Stoddard For Familien Iglesias, art is often a family affair. Winnie van der Rijn is an epic story teller. The conversation below has been edited for brevity. Upon arriving in the Cambodian city of Phnom Penh for a week-long school service trip , I had no idea that I was also beginning a journey into the world of traditional Cambodian textiles.
My trip was mainly focused on. Ten years at Textile Arts Center has meant 10 years of growth, community, passion, learning, making, collaborating, and empowering. My conversation with artist Romina Chuls ranged from stories of her father taking her on trips in the Andes and their traditional embroidery, to ideas around the decolonization of art museums and her time in residence at TAC. To condense. Search for:. Guest Bloggers Facebook Instagram Twitter.
Natural and dyed silk fibers. Inside a Hoi An tailor shop. Silk fibers on a loom. An adult Bombyx mori moth with eggs. Larval silk worms feeding on mulberry leaves. Women unravelling silk from cocoons. Silkworm cocoons immersed in boiling water. A woman weaving a brocade pattern on a traditional Cham loom. A traditional Vietnamese loom. Various silk and silk blended fabrics at Silk Village. Tags: craft , fabric , fiber , handmade , Hoi An , inspiration , silk , silk production , silk village , textile , textile art , textile travel , textiles , Vietnam , weaving.
One Comment. Artist Highlights , Artist Residency. She took another scrap of fabric out, and lit it. Sources: Menachem, Lewin and Eli M. Handbook of Fiber Chemistry. Dekker, Stewart, Iain, et al. Lonely Planet Vietnam.
Fabric comes in all shapes, sizes, weights, and constructions. It can be natural, synthetic, or manufactured. Some fabrics have more stigma than others. In this blog post, we will be asking the question; what is viscose? A textile, which might be a little misunderstood.
Glossary of textile manufacturing
Gokul tex print Pvt. It supplies the global textile and fashion industry with high-quality fabrics and ready-to-wear designer apparel. Gokul tex print's state-of-the-art manufacturing facilities have the latest technology in fiber dyeing, yarn spinning, weaving, processing, folding, which ensures that the company is at par with leading textile manufacturers in India. It stands as an independent firm that is involved from raw material to finished product — weaving, dyeing, printing, embroidery, designing, value addition, wholesale and nationwide retail outlets. This entails a total control over innovation, technology, research, quality and a value for the price. Gokul tex print's strong nationwide retail network includes exclusive showrooms, wholesalers, and multi-brand outlets through which it reaches its customers.
You can edit the text in this area, and change where the contact form on the right submits to, by entering edit mode using the modes on the bottom right. You can set your address, phone number, email and site description in the settings tab. Link to read me page with more information. Draft-Danna print was inspired by hand drawn drafts of early American overshot weaving patterns. Silk noil has a varied, nubby texture and matte surface that somewhat resembles cotton. However, this fabric has better drape and visual depth. Silk bandanas make a great travel companion, keeping you comfortable in both hot and cold climates.
The textile industry is primarily concerned with the design, production and distribution of yarn , cloth and clothing. The raw material may be natural, or synthetic using products of the chemical industry. It's outputs are- Denim ,cotton cloth etc. Cotton is the world's most important natural fibre. In the year , the global yield was 25 million tons from 35 million hectares cultivated in more than 50 countries. Cotton can be obtained in many ways like from weaving,knitting,even by using hand looms and power looms. Artificial fibres can be made by extruding a polymer , through a spinneret into a medium where it hardens. Wet spinning rayon uses a coagulating medium.
What Is Viscose? 6 Facts About This Misunderstood Fabric
Register Now. Generally, a set number of yarns are used for the formation of fabrics. Also, a number of techniques are used for producing fabrics such as weaving, knitting, and felting. The type of fabrics varies by the fibres, the fabric formation techniques, machinery used for producing them, and finishing techniques.
Written by: K. Parachute Fabric:. A parachute is a device, used to slow the motion of an object through an atmosphere by creating drag, or in case of ram-air parachutes, aerodynamic lift. Parachutes are usually made out of light, strong cloth, originally silk, most commonly nylon. Properties of Parachute Fabric:. In addition to the structural analysis of the cloth, the properties measured are weight, breaking strength, tear resistance, elasticity, and air permeability. Cloth should possess a high resistance to the continuation of a tear already started, whereas breaking strength always applies to the simultaneous breaking of system of yarns. It is the resistance principally of one yarn at a time to a rupture travelling crosswise from yarn to yarn.
Process + Materials
Even before the United States entered the First World War in , procurement officers for the armed forces began to look for sources for the vast array of goods that the American military would need to go to war across the ocean. A particular kind of silk fiber was high on their list of necessary goods. Spun silk yarns and silk noils short or uneven fibers that can't be used to make the most expensive dress silks were required by the army and the navy. Both services had tried to find a substitute for silk in one vital product, and failed. When burned, silk vanishes completely, leaving no ash residue behind. So the bags that held the powder charges that fired off every shell from the big artillery guns, on land or sea, during the First World War were made of silk. And spun silks and noils were much less expensive than premium silk yarns. The American silk industry responded to this call, providing about five million square yards per month of undyed, unbleached, plain weave cartridge bag silk to the U.
Designed and organized to give students the specific information they require, this is an essential reference for anyone studying architectural interiors. New topics include accessible design basics, computing technologies, fire-resistive construction, fire protection systems, security and communications systems, interior equipment, evidence-based design, and climate considerations. In addition, this second Student Edition offers more material on residential design, is packed with more than 1, informative illustrations, and includes the latest coverage for students to find real help understanding the critical material they need for the core classes required by all curriculums. Expert advice and details for designing interior project types including commercial, residential, healthcare, retail, hospitality, educational, performance, and museum spaces, as well as existing building interiors. Like Interior Graphic Standards Professional Edition , this student edition's Second Edition provides essential specification and detailing information for working inside the structural shell, covering interior partitions and floor systems, updated lighting practices, furnishings, equipment, and wall, floor, and ceiling finishes. Account Options Anmelden. Meine Mediathek Hilfe Erweiterte Buchsuche.
Pro-tips for buying clothes that will last years, not weeks
This past winter, I was lucky enough to visit Vietnam on vacation. While there were many places I wanted to explore, one that particularly enticed me was the ambient former port city of Hoi An, located on the eastern coast of Vietnam. Hoi An and the surrounding area has been inhabited for an estimated years, emerging as an important seaport for the Champa kingdom.
The manufacture of textiles is one of the oldest of human technologies. To make textiles, the first requirement is a source of fibre from which a yarn can be made, primarily by spinning.
Making and Growing brings together the latest work in the fields of anthropology and material culture studies to explore the differences - and the relation - between making things and growing things, and between things that are made and things that grow. Though the former are often regarded as artefacts and the latter as organisms, the book calls this distinction into question, examining the implications for our understanding of materials, design and creativity. Grounding their arguments in case studies from different regions and historical periods, the contributors to this volume show how making and growing give rise to co-produced and mutually modifying organisms and artefacts, including human persons.
Silk, one of the oldest fibers known to man, originated in China. The history of silk is both enchanting and illustrious.